Today was the most packed day of the trip thus far. Before leaving the central Bogotá city limits, I wanted to spend just one day away from the local residential area of my apartment and venture into the more touristy areas. One of Bogotá’s most popular tourist destinations is El Cerro de Monserratte, a large church built on top of a mountain overlooking the city. Next to this landmark is the Candelaria district of Bogotá which is oldest and most historically significant areas of the city. These areas are only about 13km from the Fontibon district where my apartment is located, but the uber ride took nearly 35 minutes due to the immense traffic. The majority of vehicles are very compact and are almost exclusively manual transmission. Motorcycles carrying anywhere from 1-3 people weave in an out of traffic like a game of Crossy Road.
When reading about these tourist areas the night before, it became clear that theft and armed robbery is a common occurrence due the amount of tourists (stark difference from the Fontibon district). However, upon arriving, the police presence around the markets and shops was profound. As I would soon discover, officers lined nearly the entire walking trail up to the Monseratte as well, a very comforting presence. Before beginning the hike, I stopped for a coffee at a local shop. This coffee was definitely a major step up from the tintos as the beans were sourced locally, freshly ground, and the drink brewed with care. The barista Katia actually spoke fluent English, another indication of a more touristy area. Katia was very interesting to talk with because her mother is Colombian and her father is Austrian, meaning she could speak English, Spanish, and German. A very interesting combo indeed. Turns out, she studied in Colorado Springs for about a year too.
There are three main ways to get to the top of the Monseratte. There is a cable car as well as a cog-rail-type train known as a funicular. Both options cost about 3-4 USD to ride one way. The third option is to take the moderately challenging 2.5km trail to the top which begins at 2640m and ends at about 3150m according to all trails. I opted for this route as the city views along the route are revered and the shops/tiendas along the route provide ample opportunities for refreshment and food. Local fitness buffs also use the route frequently for training and an opportunity to appreciate the city from above.
After the first 100 steps, I was feeling pretty good about myself, passing people left and right and trusting the fitness that I thought I had. After a few more minutes, it became clear that this was going to be harder than I thought, especially with the already high elevation of Bogotá and the steepness of the grade. The march to the top was indeed a hustle, but well worth the journey. After exploring the summit shops and church, I purchased an Arepa con Queso with a Colombian hot chocolate to go along with it. The scene was almost picturesque as the rain started to drizzle just as I was eating warm food on the top of a mountain.
The next main activity for today was to join a walking tour of the La Candelaria district to learn about the history of the buildings and to explore more Colombian foods and customs. I met the tour guide Lorenzo at the Cranky Croc hostel lobby and immediately bonded with another traveler from Kansas City as we discussed the nightmare that is the Denver Broncos. We walked several streets as Lorenzo educated us on the cultural significance of specific architecture, artwork, and food. The street art was stunning and most of the murals were symbolic of cultural resistance against the Spanish Conquistadors or current societal issues. I found it most shocking that only about 3 months ago, the first president of Colombia was elected that did NOT have any affiliation with the “narco traficantes.” According to Lorenzo, the president for the decades prior was actually the right hand man of Pablo Escobar.
The tour finished at a local craft brewery and coffee bar where we were served more hot chocolate with cheesy bread and a block of cheese to dip into the drink, a common Colombian custom. With our snack, we played a game called “Tejo” in which a heavy iron disk is tossed at a board. On this board are small ceramic or plastic tiles that are filled with small amounts of gunpowder. If the iron disk makes contact with a tile with sufficient force, the tile erupts with a noise similar to a loud firecracker. Lorenzo did not inform us of this last fact until after the first tile literally exploded and we all jumped.
It has been a wild mix of emotions coming to a new city and experiencing new culture. Tomorrow, I leave the city and head into the countryside about 50km outside of Bogotá to stay at a farm near a small town called Choachi. The next chapter of adventure begins.
