This post is both for Oct 23 and 24. In the same direction as the small town of Buritaca that I visited on Saturday, there is a trail head that leads to the waterfall of Quebrada Valencia. I have read many reviews of this hike and gotten many recommendations, so it was definitely time to check it out. After a chill breakfast and talking to the fam for a bit, I hopped on a similar public bus and told the driver my destination. I decided to just throw my phone, wallet, keys, and a couple snacks in a plastic bag as it was expected to rain a lot.
The bus dropped me off and I walked towards what appeared to be the trailhead with a large sign and a painted picture of the waterfall. Thus, I proceeded in this direction for about 15 minutes again sludging through a lot of mud and weeds wondering why such a well-traveled trail would be in this condition. After about a kilometer, a local farmer asked if I was lost. I asked him where the waterfall was and he told me that the trailhead was, in fact, on the other side of the road. Once again, out of two options, I had chosen wrong. To give myself a little credit, the direction I originally chose had a massive entrance sign and a few smaller signs conveying the entry price and other information. Why there were all these signs in the wrong direction, I have no idea.
The ACTUAL way to the trail featured this smaller sign (photo above on the right). It stood at the end of a narrow stone path that lead down to the river and abruptly ended. It took me a minute to realize that the trail started at the river bank and I needed to cross. This would be the first of about 7 river crossings in total. Eventually, I gave up on taking my shoes off and just sent it barefoot like a true jungle man. The hike took only 30 minutes each direction following the river the entire time. The water was very clear as it was fresh from the mountains.
On the way up, I met an elderly woman named Gloria who was accompanied by a younger guy that looked to be in his mid-30s. The man was French but actually lived in Cali, another city in Colombia, where he works and raises his family. As I talked to them more, I learned that the two were friends and the man was staying with Gloria at her house to get away from the city for a bit. Gloria showed me her house along the trail and it really did feel like a cabin-in-the-woods type place, yet I was fascinated that she was able to build the place herself. She had all sorts of animals running around, from 7 dogs, to cats, to ducks, to pigs, you name it.
When I arrived at the falls, I was greeted by two donkeys grazing on the plants nearby. As I sidestepped the trail to avoid them, I was finally able to see the grandeur of the “cascadas” as they’re called in Spanish. Although the grade of the rocks was relatively shallow, the falls continued high into the jungle with distinct levels and pools following each mini rock cliff. The bottom had the largest pool where people were swimming and enjoying the cool water. It was an amazing sight.
The rocks were actually not slippery at all. They were very clean and did not have any algae growing on them, so it was relatively easy to climb to the top. I made it pretty far up, but did not take my phone for pics (my phone is actually a lifeline here-didn’t want to risk it). It was surreal sitting on a waterfall in the middle of the jungle in the Andes mountains. I felt very small, yet humbled and grateful. Gloria had mentioned that the falls and the water are considered sacred to the locals in the area, and after this experience, I believed her. Plus, it is Diwali season (Indian holiday celebrating light, happiness, and new beginnings), so perfect timing I guess. This was easily one of my favorite parts of the trip so far.
After taking the bus back, I went straight to Wilson’s for lunch. Then, I went to a stand a bought another 6 liter water jug for drinking and the shop owner told me that a rare shipment of Oreos had arrived that morning. I caved and purchased a few rolls, most of which are already gone. I didn’t realize how much I missed processed food. Here, it is interesting that even the “fast food” is still prepared on the spot with fresh ingredients. Granted, it does take a lot of time, but I feel healthier. I am also not used to items being missing at stores or markets. Here, if the shipment of bananas doesn’t arrive that day, then no bananas. Oh well. It’s not like home where the King Soopers will have bananas 24/7.
Now, onto today. I honestly didn’t do too much today and took time to call friends, family, and to read. I found that I have really enjoyed reading again and I think it has helped me focus better on other tasks. This morning, I ate breakfast and read from 8am-11:30am straight, something I haven’t done since before 6th grade. I went back to the gym and was greeted by a not-so friendly dog who I thought was asleep, but then jumped on me. I may be a little dramatic, but I thought my face was going to be ripped off. I’ll definitely have a few scratches to show for that encounter. I don’t blame the dog though. Everyone here has huge dogs pretty much for protection and to sound the alarm for intruders.
I also took the time to plan more of the trip ahead. I did research on Medellin which is where I will travel in 2 days. It is fascinating to read about the city’s history and how it went from one of the most dangerous cities in the world only 40 years ago to now one of the safest in all of Latin America. I researched neighborhoods to stay at, booked an Airbnb, and booked my flight for Lima, Peru for Nov 1.
It was a couple days of reflection for sure. I feel like I am getting used to the stark differences now. I saw one of the cats here munching on a bird that it caught and it honestly didn’t phase me as much as it would have before. As I was writing this blog, a praying mantis landed two feet above my head on a branch, and I didn’t freak out. I saw another frog hopping around the size of both my fists. It may not be much, but I think this exposure-therapy thing may be working.
Lastly (sorry for so much writing today), I got to video call my family and celebrate Diwali:) Please don’t mind my goofy face. Grateful for the life, family, friends that I have and for the privilege of experiencing this trip.
Such a great blog and loved reading it.
It seems obvious that you are a big fan of “road less traveled”.. Be true to yourself and craft your own path beta.
What a wonderful couple of days!
Wow such an awesome blog bai I really enjoyed reading it! The waterfall looks so magical and that house truly shows how little we need in life. I’m glad you are becoming accustomed to some of the cultured shocks there, a true jungle man for sure. Does that mean you can catch the spiders in the basement now?