As soon as I think I am getting used to life in Colombia, I am soon reminded that I have much to learn and see. Today was a travel day as I ventured from a residential area of Bogotá to the outskirts of a small town named Choachí. The trip involved an uber to the bus station, a 1.5 hour bus ride to the town, and a 2.5-ish mile hike to the farm.
The bus ticket cost 10k COP and took passengers up the mountainous curvy roads. The transformation from dense city structures to dense forest occurred in what felt like a blink of an eye. There were many cyclists pedaling furiously up the hills, yet there was no shoulder on the road. Cars, busses, transport trucks, motorcycles, cyclists, and runners were all navigating the harrowing roads together. But, somehow, everything worked in this chaotic beautiful system. All I could think to myself was how fun this road would be to drive for a zippy car or fast speed bike. One of the best parts, there were still vendors nearly every few kilometers to sell food and refreshment. I don’t think I will ever have to worry about not finding food in this country.
After arriving in Choachí, I had the option of taking a 3-wheel taxi to the farm entrance using the instructions provided by my host, Jorge. However, he mentioned that the walk had stunning views and I decided to send it. Jorge had sent me a series of 5 video instructions that outlined the path I needed to take. Little did I know that the “walk” would turn into a 2.5 mile workout with a 35lb pack on my back, a laptop bag on my front, and many hills to climb. The walk was indeed beautiful and the instructions spot on, but I was heaving at the end.
Upon arriving at the farm gates, Jorge came out to greet me. After just spending one day with him, I can tell you that he is one of the kindest and most genuine human beings I have ever met. He is a musician and creates albums to generate income while also an indigenous leader in the local community. He also specializes in bioconstruction and traditional medicine/healing. Jorge built his entire house from the foundation upward, including clay walls and wood framing, which he and his parents currently reside in. Less than a year ago, Jorge completed the “hobbit hut” as he calls it to allow visitors to stay with him and to generate more income. Jorge speaks English quite well because he was able to win a scholarship from Britain (for his music) to go to London and learn English at a university. When I arrived, Jorge’s mother cooked me a full meal which included a fresh cup of organically grown coffee and fresh-pressed juice using fruits from their gardens. Jorge and his father returned to their work of hanging and drying tobacco leaves which they will sell for profit in the markets.
The hut itself is very warm compared to the chilly Andean air outside, yet there is no central heating or fireplace. It is about 1.5m x 3m of space with a bed, small table, and rug. Jorge even wired lights and an electrical outlet inside. I can stand fully upright only in the center of the hut (and as everyone knows, I am not that tall). The bathrooms are all outhouse-style but extremely clean with running water and light. There is a dedicated eating and workspace for guests attached to the main house next to Jorge’s workshop where he constructs new projects and where his mother partakes in her gardening hobbies. A very friendly cat is part of the family here and he did not leave my lap for nearly 2 hours today.
After dinner, Jorge and I talked for an hour about his background. His story is very inspiring and humbling as he started with nothing, worked as a music teacher in a nearby school, and slowly worked his way to owning his own farm and businesses. He has the entrepreneurial mind which I hope to someday acquire. Additionally, I shared with him my love for exercising and physical activity. Tomorrow, he and I plan to go to his neighbor’s farm to help with more harvesting and lumber processing. After talking, Jorge shared with me some songs using local indigenous instruments made from special types of bamboo. One even was made from the horn of a cow.
All in all, I have a roof over my head, clean bathrooms with the best view, good music, good company, electricity, cellular, and even faster wifi than I had in the Bogota apartment, in what feels like the middle of nowhere. Even through I am many more kilometers away from the airport, I feel very safe and welcomed with Jorge and his family. I am looking forward to the rest of this week.
Loved the blog, looks like you are having an amazing time, love you !!
Wonderful story dear friend. You make me imagine those landscapes and the feeling of being in a completely different place taking the best of the people and their culture.